Battery Life

Every vehicle has one, but most of the time we pay little or no attention to the battery until one day we turn the key and the engine won’t crank. There are a couple of things to do to help extend the life of the battery. First do a visual inspection every couple of oil changes and make sure there is no corrosion building up on the terminals. (Terminals are where the cables connect to the battery) There are two different types of terminal designs in vehicles today. They are located on the top or the side of the battery. This first picture is a top post battery terminal that is corroded. The second picture is the side post design. Corrosion on the terminals will need to be cleaned.

 If you’re up for the challenge here’s a link to a video that will give you the basic idea on how to clean them.

http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Clean-Car-Battery-Terminals-142076734

Please keep in mind when working with batteries there is some danger involved. You do not want to create an arc (short the positive to ground). So if you’re not comfortable with this procedure, please take your car to a mechanic to have it performed.

Also VERY IMPORTANT!!! DO NOT LET THE BATTERY CABLES TOUCH EACH OTHER OR ANY METAL AT THE SAME TIME. I recommend wrapping them up and cleaning them one at a time.

There is also something else to keep in mind that the video did not cover; a memory saver for the radio. This very inexpensive tool plugs into the cigarette lighter socket. This keeps all the preset radio stations and music settings from having to be reset.

Most of us are guilty of leaving a charger for aftermarket devices plugged into the cigarette lighter or auxiliary power socket. This will cause a slight drain and decrease the life of the battery. Always remember to unplug any of these devices when the vehicle is shut off. On some vehicles the cigarette lighter socket will not work with the car off. To check this, leave the device on and turn the vehicle off. If the device quits charging or working then they can stay plugged in. I recommend simply unplugging them at all times.

Now let’s discuss maintenance versus maintenance free batteries. Even though they are rare there are a few maintenance batteries still around. A battery that requires adding distilled water every once in a while will have removable caps on top. Remove them and fill with DISTILLED WATER ONLY. Depending on the climate you live in will determine how often they need water. These two pictures show a couple different maintenance style batteries.

A maintenance free battery will have no caps and it usually says “maintenance free” on it.

Today there are battery testers that can determine how many CCA (cold cranking amps ) a battery still has available. This is the reserve power that the battery is holding and should be checked with every oil change. This is an important step for the prevention of early morning jump starts.

Antilock Brakes

Commonly referred to as ABS (Antilock Brake System)

It’s that time of year again where the North has a lot of snow and ice, and the South has a lot of rain. Most cars today come with antilock brakes as standard equipment. Check the owner’s manual to make sure. The manual will show a picture of a symbol that will light up on the vehicle’s instrument panel during startup. This is called a trouble light. The manual will also explain that when this light comes on and stays on, the ABS has a malfunction and will not work. This does not mean that the regular brakes have a problem; the vehicle should be able to stop normally. The ABS is only used during panic stop conditions. If you have never experienced a panic stop with your ABS brakes then I would suggest that you do so. A good dirt road or parking lot that is secluded will work. Just make sure nobody is around when you try this. Now drive your car straight at approximately 30 MPH and slam on the brakes, making sure to continue holding the brake pedal down firmly. You should feel the brake pedal pulsate and you might even hear a humming noise. This will be the ABS pulsating the brakes. This is normal and the reason you need to experience this before you have a real panic stop situation. The ABS pulsates your brakes so you don’t slide and lose steering control. Your vehicle will also stop faster.

Now let’s talk a little about the vehicles weight and momentum. The ABS cannot overcome this if you are traveling too fast for conditions. An example would be to drive in a big parking lot covered with snow or rain. First go 20 mph and slam on the brakes while trying to turn. Then try it again at 35 mph. The vehicle will not turn at faster speeds because the momentum takes over. Just because the vehicle is equipped with this feature does not give license to becoming comfortable in climatic conditions. Maintain cautious driving in hazardous weather.

Drive Belts

There is a lot of confusion today about drive belts, and when to replace them. First it needs to be determined what type of belt is on the vehicle. There are three different belts. The first design is the V belt. This picture gives a cross section view. (If you have a riding lawn mower take a look at the belts, they are the same.) A good rule of thumb is to replace this belt every four years or 40,000 miles. Take a look at the inside of this belt for cracks. Small cracks are normal but if any cracks go halfway through the belt or more then replace it.

The next belt is called a serpentine belt. This belt is flat and has several grooves on one side. It runs several components on the engine with only one belt. Most vehicles only have one or two of these belts on the engine and they last a lot longer than the V belt. The serpentine belt can be made out of two different types of materials. One is an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 miles) of use. Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about halfway through its usable life. A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart, ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced farther apart should not warrant replacing the belt.

Any belt that exhibits chunking (small pieces of rubber missing in the grooves) should be replaced.

A broken belt is always bad news because when it snaps, all drive power to whatever it turns is lost. That means the water pump quits circulating coolant through the engine, the alternator quits producing amps, the power steering pump ceases to assist steering, and the air conditioner quits cooling. Many newer vehicles have a single serpentine belt that drives all of the engine's accessories, so when it fails everything stops working.

The other belt is called a timing belt. Not all engines have one so check the owner’s manual to make sure. This particular belt cannot be seen because it is hidden behind covers on the engine. The timing belt is made out of different types of rubber material as well and needs to be replaced according to the schedule in the owner’s manual. Certain engines can be damaged from the timing belt breaking and can leave a motorist stranded.

How’s Your Driving?

There are basically two types of driving: normal and severe. The maintenance schedule of a vehicle will depend on how it is driven. For instance, the vehicle may be driven very short distances only a few times a week. Or, it may be driven long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather. It may be used to make deliveries. Or, it may be driven to work, to do errands and in many other ways.


Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. The vehicle may need more frequent checks and replacements. Keep in mind the following:

This type of driving would put a vehicle under the normal maintenance schedule.

• Vehicles that carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits.

• Vehicles that are driven off-road in the recommended manner.

• Vehicles that are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal driving limits.

This type of driving would put a vehicle under the severe maintenance schedule.

• Most trips are less than 8 to 16 km (5 to 10 mi). This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.

• Most trips include extensive idling such as frequent driving in stop-and-go traffic.

• Most trips that are through dusty areas.

• A trailer is frequently towed, or a carrier is used on top of the vehicle.

• If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.

It is very important to read this section of the owner’s manual and keep a log of its maintenance. This will increase the dependability of the vehicle and make it as fuel efficient as possible. Another thing to remember is this also increases the vehicle’s resale value.

Brake Fluid

This is a very common picture of a brake master cylinder. It is located under the hood on the left side (driver’s side) in the engine compartment, back near the firewall. The firewall separates the driver from the engine compartment. The picture to the right shows three components. The reservoir holds extra brake fluid for the brake system. It is designed to hold a specific amount of fluid. A common mistake during an oil change is for the lube technician to top off this reservoir. REQUEST ONLY TO INSPECT THE CONDITION AND LEVEL. DO NOT ADD FLUID. The reason for this is, as the break lining wears, the brake fluid level drops in the reservoir. If the level drops too low the fluid level sensor will warn the driver to check the brakes. There are two reasons for the level to drop and trip the sensor. One is a leak in the system. The other is lining wear. So anytime the light comes on the complete break system needs to be inspected!


A good rule of thumb is to have a BRAKE FLUID FLUSH every couple years regardless of mileage. Brake fluid attracts moisture, and this moisture can rust the inside of the brake system. This moisture was not that big a deal ten years ago, but on ABS brake systems of today, the rust and other debris that accumulates in the fluid can do a lot of internal damage. This can be very costly. Brake fluid can break down over time from excess heat that is created from within the brake system. The fluid can also absorb moisture over a period of time from condensation making is useless or even harmful to the system.

OIL LEAKS

It’s not difficult to notice when a vehicle has an oil leak. There will usually be a puddle and/or stain in the garage or driveway. Sometimes there may be a burning smell while driving.
Oil leaks should be fixed as soon as possible! Not only is it not healthy to breathe in the fumes, but the leaking oil can do damage to the engine and transmission mounts and other rubber components. If the leak goes on too long, the rubber becomes soft. Also, other components can be damaged by the oil like starters, belts, sensors and their connectors. In other words, oil leaks can become costly if not attended to and repaired.
There are several systems in a vehicle that are able to leak oil such as the engine, transmission, power steering and air conditioning system. A good auto technician should inspect these systems at every oil change to check for oil seepage leaks. Spotting the seepage leak and repairing it will prevent a major oil leak and minimize damage and cost. (It’s OK to ask or remind your technician to inspect for oil leaks.)

Going back: The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT

Scenario: You have recently had your vehicle repaired because of the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. The repair was costly, and a couple of days later, the light is on again! You have to take the vehicle back to the shop! What’s up with that?
First, let me explain what a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is. Vehicles have an engine computer and several sensors that monitor and control many different functions on the engine. When the computer does not receive the correct data, or has a problem controlling something, it will store a default code and turn on the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. This code aids the technician with the diagnosis of a particular system.
Always make sure that this default code and the actual repair performed is documented on the repair order. The reason for this documentation is that there are several faults that will turn on a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. The light coming back on may be due to something entirely different and is not related at all to the last repair.
Upon returning to the shop, the fault code should be checked by the service writer or manager before the vehicle is taken back to the technician. This is a simple procedure that should be done at no charge. If it is the same fault code, the manager needs to be notified in order for follow up on the previous repair and get the vehicle properly fixed. A good repair shop will do this to the customer’s satisfaction.
Note: If the fault code is different and it is a new problem with the vehicle, the shop is not responsible for the cost of the diagnostics and repair.